Park 20: Mt. Rainier National Park, WA: How often can you visit Mt. Rainier and never see the mountain - apparently often!  We began the climb in sunlight through a grove of enormous Douglas fir growing on a carpeted floor of moss, lichen and ferns, but were quickly greeted by rain and heavy fog as we wound our way up to Paradise from the southwest entrance of this vast park.  As we ascended, heavy snows began to cover the trees and the clouds rolled in.  The road snaked along the Nisqually and Paradise rivers where in years past glacier and snow melt cut a wide swath down the mountain toppling trees and spreading mud and rock for miles.    

Moss covered grove of Douglas Fir

The power of glacial and snow melt

The top two thirds of the still active volcano, rising 14,410 feet, and its 22 glaciers remained hidden, but we were treated to dozens of waterfalls along the drive up the eastern side of the park.  We hiked to Box Canyon where the sheer granite walls had been carved to the depth of 115 feet by years of raging waters.  Mt. Rainier creates its own ecosystem, from sub-tropical forests and meadows to glaciers, because of its gigantic size and the moisture laden winds from the Pacific.  We must come back someday when we can see the oft photographed reflection of the volcano in the lake with colorful wildflowers in full bloom!  

Odometer:  8,810 miles. 

Narada Falls

Christine Falls

Somewhere up there is Mt. Rainier

Oregon Coast and Portland:  Leaving Crater Lake NP, we followed the North Umpqua River along the state scenic waterway through the heavily forested Cascade Range and then crossed the Coast Range into Coos Bay for our start up the Oregon coastline.  The drive proved as beautiful as claimed with Highway 101 hugging the rugged cliffs, capes and scenic bays of the Pacific with state parks every few miles!  The first day we discovered the Oregon Dunes National Recreation area which stretches from Coos Bay to the historic town of Florence where we stopped for the night.

Three Capes scenic drive

The next day we continued north along 101 up to Three Capes Scenic Loop where we detoured to follow the old Oregon Coast Trail up to Tillamook Bay.  There, we backtracked to hike to Munson Creek Falls amidst a quiet fairyland of moss covered trees and giant ferns.  The waterfall at 319 feet is the highest in the coast range.  

Pasture land near Tillamook OR

At Tillamook, we visited the Tillamook Cheese factory where we toured and tasted the famous cheese and ice cream known the world over!  We returned to 101 and ended the second day’s drive at Astoria close to the Lewis & Clark National Historic Park on the Columbia River.  Astoria is a charming Victorian river town with streets terraced up the steep hills overlooking the mighty Columbia.  We stopped to enjoy the colorful painted houses and incredible rhododendrons in full bloom everywhere! 

Munson Falls

To Portland, we chose to travel inland along small, winding timber roads where huge tracts of land had been clear cut and replanted.  In Portland, we checked into the waterfront Marriott and John hurried off to the scheduled car maintenance, our second of this trip!  I set out on foot to downtown Portland then caught a train up to The International Rose Test Garden in Washington Park where thousands of roses represent over 550 varieties!  What had begun as an overcast day cleared allowing us to see Mt. Hood from the garden overlook.  We must return to Portland, the city of bridges and roses, to visit this natural gem of a state, but next time let’s fly in!

Seasonal floral display in Portland
for 100th Anniversary of Festival of Roses

Odometer: 8,426 miles. 

Park 19: Crater Lake National Park, OR:  We made a fun 500 mile detour to visit friends in Ft. Bidwell who ranch the rugged high desert of Surprise Valley in the NE corner of California.  It was a busy weekend helping them prepare for the Volunteer Firemen Annual BBQ on Sunday where they planned to feed 500!  This exposed us to a side of California we had never experienced and we enjoyed catching up with old Navy friends who grew up in this area.  Their lovely hilltop home looks down the entire 60 mile valley!


Surprise Valley in the northeast corner
of California.

The drive to Crater Lake was a mountainous 170 mile trek, following the gravel Applegate Wagon Trail used in the 1840’s.   Once in the valley, we began to see volcanoes in the distance as we crossed into Oregon.  As we entered the park, we began the assent into snow country to reach the crater’s rim where we checked into the historic Crater Lake Lodge built in 1915.   Because of snow, only 1.3 miles of the 33 mile rim road were open.  Still, the view of the lake was spectacular!  Someday we hope to return when we can explore the park without snow but with wildflowers in bloom.   

Odometer: 7,915 miles. 

Crater Lake looking towards east rim

Historic Crater Lake Lodge

Crater Lake and Wizard Island
looking towards west rim

Park 18: Lassen Volcanic National Park, CA:  We traveled from Redding, CA about 45 miles to the NW entrance to Lassen Volcanic at Manzanita Lake.  To our disappointment, the 30 mile main park road was still mostly closed due to snow and we were able to only drive 10 miles from the Visitor’s Museum to the Devastated Area.  From 1914 until 1917 this once dormant volcano erupted over 150 times, spewing cloud of volcanic steam, ash and lava for miles.  Since 1921 Lassen Peak has remained quiet, but it is still considered an active volcano.  What makes this volcanic region unusual as compared to the others in the Cascade Range is that Lassen is composed of each of the four types of volcanoes.

Our visit was short as it was very cold and still snowing!  We followed a large brown bear from the safety of our car as he foraged the roadside after his long hibernation in this frigid, scarred countryside.  There were many signs of renewal since the massive May 1915 eruption as young trees and stubborn grasses take hold in a slow, natural comeback unaided by human hands.     

Odometer: 7,738 miles.



Debris field at the Devastated Area

"Small" rock thrown miles by one
one of the final eruptions in May 1915



Park 17: Redwood National Park, CA: We were greeted today with our first overcast and rain of the trip.  It dampened any desire for extensive hikes as we visited the giant redwoods. 

To say it simply, we stood among giants today.  Few words can describe these tall, ramrod straight trees.  Groves of redwoods block out any sunlight that tries to get through and you find yourself among these trees in a quietness that's hard to describe.  Our one short hike took us into the Lady Bird Johnson Grove of redwoods.

The national park intermingles with numerous California state parks and campgrounds with Highway 101 running through its middle as it traverses up the coastline for about 40 miles.

We exited the park at its north entrance to make the drive towards our next stop.  This route took us through Grants Pass in Oregon before turning back south towards California as we drove through our first snowfall.

Driving through the redwoods
with inches to spare

Redwoods in Lady Bird Johnson Grove

Odometer: 7,738 miles.

Seashore 1: Point Reyes National Seashore, CA: We headed north from Ventura, crossing the Golden Gate Bridge enroute to an overnight stay at Pt. Reyes.  This required a twisty, windy 30 mile drive along Highway 1, hugging the coast to the left and the mountains to the right - up, down and around every curve! 

This stop was an unexpected delight.  The surprise is that Pt. Reyes is directly on top of the San Andreas fault!  Although not a national park, we thought this national treasure was worth an entry in the blog. 

We checked into the Pt. Reyes Seashore Inn late in the afternoon and then drove Sir Francis Drake Drive to the lighthouse at Pt. Reyes.  The 22 mile drive took us from a small coastal community, Inverness, into windy, hilly, flowing grasslands home to numerous dairy farms.  Sir Francis Drake landed here many years ago providing the basis for naming many of the landmarks and giving us Drakes Bay oysters.  This is worth another trip back to more fully enjoy!

Sir Francis Drake Drive to the lighthouse

Pt. Reyes seashore from the lighthouse

Odometer: 6,898 miles.

Pt. Reyes Seashore Inn

Park 16: Channel Islands National Park; Santa Cruz Island, CA:  Spent an interesting day on Santa Cruz Island after a one hour, 21 mile, ride on the Island Packers high speed catamaran.  The 22 mile long island off the coast of Ventura, CA is the largest of the five islands that comprise the park.  Enroute we were delighted to cross a huge school of bottle nose dolphin that was feeding in the channel.    The dolphin followed alongside and raced the boat, darting in and out of sight, playfully jumping the wake for fifteen minutes!  The ship captain estimated that they numbered over 1000 and we would agree!

Santa Cruz was the home of the Chumash Indians for many years until the Spaniards arrived in the 1700’s and gradually pushed them to the missions on the mainland.  In the late 1800’s the island was turned into a ranch for sheep and pigs.   Since becoming a National Park in 1980, the park rangers have removed the nonnative species, both plant and animal, to return the island to its earlier existence.

Overlook at Cavern Point

We spent the day hiking the diverse windswept island of steep volcanic hills, grassy meadows and rugged ocean shoreline.  A naturalist led our small group of 14 to the top of Cavern Point, then we were on our own to explore.   After a rough five mile loop fighting the wind, and a picnic in the middle of a grassy trail, we returned to the rocky beach by 4:00 to catch the return ferry.  Except for two spartan campgrounds, there were no amenities or services on the island! 

Trail to Potato Bay

Beach and landing at Scorpion Bay

Odometer: 6,454miles.

Pauses along the way:  Even though Yosemite had taken us to the center of the state, it was worth the 300 mile detour to LA to visit great friends living at Marina Del Rey.  Staying aboard their 52 foot beauty for the weekend, we enjoyed a day sail to watch the CA Cup, an annual racing weekend of the California Yacht Club, a morning walk through Venice Beach and just wining, dining and catching up with dear friends who have embraced their new life on the water.   

This change in direction also set us for a nice visit with a cousin and her daughter in Santa Barbara; their charming hillside home on Foothill Lane offers a beautiful view of the Pacific!  They treated us to a scrumptious seafood dinner at The Boathouse and after “checking out” in the morning, we drove down to the beach for breakfast before continuing the drive up the scenic coastal Highways 1 and 101 to Port Hueneme. 

CalCup yacht race

Good friends Kenny and Betsy

 Odometer: 6,310 miles.


Me at the helm

Park 15: Yosemite National Park, CA:  The 130 mile trip to Yosemite took us through familiar country, reminding us of happy days living here in the San Joaquin Valley.  Although we had visited Yosemite, we were still awe struck at our first sight of the mile wide, seven mile long canyon from the tunnel view overlook!  This granite panorama which encompasses El Captain, Half Dome, Sentinel Rock, Cathedral Rocks, and the 620 foot Bridalveil Falls has been called the most photographed vista on Earth!

Yosemite Valley from Tunnel View

Yosemite Falls

Our stop here was brief as we have enjoyed this park with our girls several times, but the stay at the historic Awahnee, which opened in 1927, was a first.  Although we had reserved a cabin just yards from the lodge, because of some glitch, we were given a room in the main lodge adjoining the Presidential Suite.  We had use of the large private balcony facing Half Dome and Yosemite Falls, so we didn’t complain too much!  Sunset cocktails on the balcony were followed by a delightful dinner in the timbered candlelit dining room with 30 foot tall craftsman style windows showcasing the giant sequoias against the jagged granite cliffs.  After two nights in a tent, this was pure luxury!

View from room balcony

Odometer: 5,999 miles!   

Upper and Lower Yosemite Falls

Parks 13 and 14: Kings Canyon & Sequoia National Parks, CA:   We left Death Valley through the breathtaking Emigrant Pass and then snaked our way back down into the desert where John trained in FA-18’s, just north of China Lake Naval Weapons Station.  The terrain changed from barren dessert to rocky rolling hills studded with Joshua trees, before running directly into the Sierra Nevada Mountains.  Out destination was only 50 miles west of our location, but we had to drive an additional 250 miles around the mountain range to enter the parks from the west. 

Joshua tree enroute to Kings Canyon

The scenic drive took us through several ecosystems as we followed the Kern and Kings Rivers through abundant fields, orchards and vineyards until we finally reached Zephyr River Expeditions where the blacktop stopped at our campsite on the Kings River just outside Kings Canyon NP.  When we discovered we were the only campers there that night, a Deliverance flashback hit us, but our river outfitters turned out to be perfect hosts and took us on an exciting 10 mile, 17 rapid whitewater rafting trip the next day!  

Kings River campsite happy hour

We camped two nights then drove into the two National Parks which have been jointly administrated since 1943.  The two contiguous parks are 66 miles long and 36 miles at their widest point, with over 800 miles of wilderness trails!  Our brief visit to the two immense parks consisted of the 30 mile drive along Generals Highway which connects the two parks to see General Grant and General Sherman, the legendary giant sequoias about 2100 years old.  We enjoyed quite walks in both groves in awe of their natural beauty and in appreciation for the men who in 1890 successfully established Kings Canyon to save the trees from lumbering. 

General Sherman sequoia

Odometer: 5,713

Rafting on Bonzai rapid Kings River

General Grant sequoia

Park 12: Death Valley National Park, CA: 

One of the most unusual and grotesquely beautiful scenic wonders of the world!

Back to nature!  The 120 mile drive into Death Valley was as you would expect—stark and desolate.  The temperature began climbing and reached 108 by the time we arrived at Furnace Creek Ranch, our lodging for two nights.  Here we explored the vast desert floor, uniquely different every mile or two, from rocky, to sandy, to salty, to mud baked and even marshy at points, in this largest National Park south of Alaska---3.4 million acres!  

Badwater Basin from Dante's Peak

Scotty's Castle

We made short hikes and long drives taking in the grotesque beauty of this place.  A highlight of this park, and a real surprise to find in such a God forsaken place, was a Mediterranean style castle built in 1922 known as Scotty’s Castle; an entertaining park ranger, clad in period clothing, led the tour through this amazing property that still contains all its original furniture, art work and personal items of the owners.   

Golf 208 feet below sea level

John put a check in the box by playing golf at the lowest golf course in the world.  He teed off at 7:00am with a temperature of 85 degrees, and finished at 10:00am at 97 degrees, well before it hit the high of 113 for the day!  We cooled off with a swim in the spring fed pool which maintains a constant 82 degree temperature.  On to mountains with green trees and cooler temperatures!

Odometer: 5,316 miles

....and the road goes on and on....

Salt flats at Badwater Basin
232 feet below sea level

Sunset over Death Valley

High prices for a captive audience!